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postcard from portland: gruner with DIY soda recipes

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Sometimes I feel bad for doing so many food-related posts when we’re travelling, but—really—that’s what travel is all about, isn’t it? Especially if the food you’re eating is local. Travel is about viewing other cultures (even if they’re just sub-cultures that are part of your own culture), and food is culture, right?

Well, anyway, we had to make a stop at Gruner in Portland, because on my first day here I read an article about how they’re part of a rising trend here in “PDX” to provide house-made sodas on the menu. In the particular case of Gruner, those sodas are Spicy Ginger Soda, Lemon Verbena Soda, and Elderflower Soda. “But are they any good?” you might be wondering. 

The answer is, I have been to the soda mountain-top, and I can never come down. They were good in the same way that a baguette with mozzarella and tomatoes is good: simple enough that you can taste each flavor swirling around. Simple enough to be complex. I had the Lemon Verbena, and hubs had the Elderflower. They were both amazing. Light and crisp, and absolutely perfect for a warm summer day.

What you simply must do is make your own. Here are the recipes for Spicy Ginger Soda and Lemon Verbena Soda, courtesy of Drew Putterman, the bartender at Gruner, and brought to you by The Oregonian.

Spicy Ginger Soda
Makes 12 servings

Fresh ginger and crushed red pepper flakes give this soda a spicy kick.

1 cup granulated sugar
2 cups water
4 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 3-inch pieces fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
12 lime wedges
6 cups soda water (divided)

Combine sugar, water, red pepper flakes, salt and ginger in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove pan from heat, cover and steep for 30 minutes. Strain ginger syrup into a jar and chill.

To serve, fill a 12-ounce glass with ice cubes. Add 2 tablespoons ginger syrup, squeeze a lime wedge into glass, and top with soda water. Stir to combine.

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Lemon Verbena Soda
Makes 24 servings

Lemon verbena isn’t readily available at supermarkets, but it’s incredibly easy to grow (look for starts at your local nursery) and adds a bright, almost lemon grass flavor to salads and infusions like this soda. [I’m wondering if you could just as easily use mint? or other herbs from the garden?]

4 cups water
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) fresh lemon verbena leaves, plus 10 more leaves for steeping

4 cups granulated sugar
Soda water
Lemon twist, for garnish

In a medium saucepan, combine the water and 1 tablespoon lemon verbena leaves. Bring to a simmer over high heat. Remove from heat, cover and let stand for 30 to 45 minutes. Strain out lemon verbena and return infused water to the saucepan. Set over high heat and simmer until reduced to 3 cups. Stir in the sugar until dissolved, remove from heat and pour into a glass jar. Add the remaining 10 lemon verbena leaves and let sit at room temperature until cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight before using.

To serve, fill a tall glass with ice. Add 2 tablespoons syrup, top with soda water and stir. Taste and add more syrup or soda if desired. Garnish with a twist of lemon.

And here was our bill, brought to us tucked inside an old German book! Is it a coincidence that everywhere I go in Portland, I seem to find more ideas for using old books?


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